Travel Journal

Larabanga - Kumasi - Nov. 16-17 - Hectic, hectic...

(Monday 19 November 2007) by Karin
After the usual bumpy bus ride a tro-tro dropped us at the entrance of the Kintampo Falls. The 25 m high fall lies on the Pumpum River, a tributary of the Black Volta, about 5 km from Kintampo alongside the road to Kumasi, todays destination.
We visited the falls in three stages where the first one is backed by a cave which houses a colony of bats. The water disappears under the rocks to reappear 20 m downstream (stage 2) where it tumbles down behind several large rocks. The pool at the base (stage 3) can be reached by a staircase. 152 steps down to start with but those had to be walked up again afterwards and with no condition left at all after 9 weeks of Ghana with no exercise, believe me, I did not run up those steps. Slowly, slowly, one at the time. During the rain season the waterfall is most impressive so I came at the right time. A taxi ride to Kintampo to get a tro-tro to Kumasi follows. Tro-tro's are not the most comfortable way of travelling so no need to tell you I was glad to arrive in Kumasi about 3 hours later and happy to be able to walk around, have some lunch and a rest at the Tasco guesthouse, centrally located and popular with budget travellers like me.

Kumasi is Ghana's second city and not only the modern capital of Ashanti Region, but it has also served as royal capital of the Ashanti state for 3 centuries. My first impression: hectic, hectic, hectic.
Travelling sure is tiring so I made it an early night.
Up and running around town at 8 in the morning. Streets are still quiet but that changed quickly. My first impression was right. Kumasi is a hectic city, far busier than Accra, with constant traffic jams that emanate in every direction from the market and lorry station. Walked around the market for a while before heading to the Cultural Centre where we strolled around the crafts market. Not easy to keep my money in my wallet here. So many nice things ;-), so little money :-( ..... We then returned to the Kejetia market. Reputedly the largest open market in West-Africa, some 12.000 traders operate within the 12-hectare market - many more stalls spill out along the surrounding streets. Glad I was not alone as once inside, the market seems like one big labyrinth. Getting back out seemed to me like it took an eternity but maybe that was only because after 5 hours of walking I was hot, sweaty, hungry and tired and the amount of people was overwhelming. Definitely the most hectic city I ever visited.
Some lunch at Vic Baboo's Cafe with the longest menu I've ever seen - burgers, pizza's, grills, curries, Chinese, vegeterian, etc - and a lazy afternoon.
Tomorrow we'll travel to Cape Coast for some lazing on the beach.
To be continued.....

  • Groete uit Suid-Afrika by Rudy
    • Groete by Karin
  • Cape Coast & Elmina by Jacco
    • Elmina by Karin

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